Welcome to the third edition of Old Port Wine Diaries! While life threw a few curveballs this month—with travel, illness, and a packed schedule—I still found time to indulge in some wonderful bottles. As summer faded into fall and the leaves began to change, it might not have been the most abundant wine month, but each glass was savored and appreciated all the more because of it. The slower pace actually gave me the chance to reflect on the nuances of each wine, making the experience that much richer and rewarding.

2019 Domaine Belargus Quarts – 93 Points 

I had the pleasure of visiting Belargus a year ago and was thoroughly impressed by every aspect of this producer. This bottle lived up to those high expectations. In fact, it wouldn’t even be available at Old Port Wine if I hadn’t left Belargus with the contact for their Northeast importer. Six months later, it was on the shelves!

The complexity of this wine is on another level, revealing new layers with every sip. It opens with dominant aromas of flint, smoke, and walnuts, which only grew more pronounced throughout the evening. If tasted blind, it would be nearly impossible to identify this as Chenin Blanc! What Adrien, the winemaker, has achieved here is truly extraordinary.

On the palate, it’s expansive, mouthwatering, and leaves a silky finish. It’s a mesmerizing wine that invites contemplation with every sip. While it still has plenty of time to develop further, it’s already magnificent.

Price: $$$$

Non-Vintage Domaine de L’Epinay Folie de l’Espinose Brut – 88 Points 

This wine hits the mark—simple, affordable, and it gets the job done. I wasn’t expecting it to be mind-blowing, and it wasn’t. But it delivers exactly what you’d hope for: light, crisp, and refreshing with clean, straightforward bubbles.

Price: $$

2022 Domaine des Roches Neuves – 91 Points 

This producer is fantastic, and this wine is no exception! It bursts with white pepper, bright red fruits, hints of tomato stem, and subtle greenery. Although it’s still young and starts off a bit tight, it’s surprisingly approachable. For an entry-level bottle, it shows exceptionally well. Medium-bodied with firm tannins and a respectable finish.

Price: $$

2020 Jacques Girardin Santenay 1er Cru ‘Clos Rousseau’ – 89 Points 

A bit of a letdown. Finding value in Burgundy is always a challenge! I should have tempered my expectations, though the price for a Premier Cru was tempting. While it’s a solid bottle overall, it doesn’t offer the best ‘value.’ Ready to drink the moment the cork was pulled and went down smoothly with lots of ripe fruit. However, it lacks real complexity and structure. Still, an enjoyable, easy-drinking wine.

Price: $$$

2022 Domaine Huet Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec – 92 Points 

Domaine Huet was another highlight from my trip last year! This producer is truly exceptional and well-regarded for a reason. I often find younger bottles of the their Sec challenging, as they can quickly become dominant and dull as they age.  However, this Demi-Sec was impressive all around! It’s light, balanced, and ripe, with fantastic acidity. I’m amazed at how well it’s showing right now. Will it lose some character over the next few years and then regain its vibrancy in 10 to 15 years? Perhaps! But for now, it’s great! 

Price: $$

2021 Cristom Eileen Vineyard – 91 Points 

The nose is filled with ripe raspberries, crushed rose petals, and subtle smoke. While this wine is quite approachable at this age, it benefits from at least 2-3 hours of decanting. It showcases great structure and length, revealing flavors of cherries, spice, and oak on the palate. After the necessary exposure to oxygen, the tannins become silky smooth. Earthy notes begin to dominate the palate after a few hours, which I find to be a positive aspect. I recommend waiting 3-5 years to fully appreciate its potential, as the complexity isn’t quite there yet.

Price: $$$

2018 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino – 92 Points 

I had a fantastic time with some great friends, whom I met through Old Port Wine Merchants! We gathered recently for a Pork Ragu dish, and this wine was the centerpiece of the table. It was ready to drink right out of the bottle and showed beautifully from the start. By the end of the night, it had evolved significantly, becoming a true delight. Overall, it was quite elegant—powerful yet reserved. A barnyard earthiness lingers on the nose. The wine is medium-plus bodied, with firm tannins that are already beginning to soften. It paired wonderfully with the food and was even better amidst our conversation!

Price: $$$

Final Thoughts on the Month of Wine: September has come to a close, and it certainly flew by! This month was filled to the brim, yet I still managed to carve out time to savor wine with friends, family, and, of course, my significant other. The more wine you enjoy, the more you appreciate how special it is to share it with loved ones. The conversations that flow with a pulled cork are truly fantastic and should never be taken for granted. Now, as we step into October—my favorite month of the year—red wine will make a triumphant return, and I’m looking forward to enjoying a nice glass of port paired with a cigar. Cheers to September! Here’s to the next chapter.

Top Three Wines:

1. 2019 Domaine Belargus Quarts
2. 2022 Domaine Huet Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec
3. 2018 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino

Price Range
$: Sub $20
$$: $20-$50
$$$: $50-$100
$$$$: $100+

Written By: Bordeaux Bard (Carson McEvoy)