Old Port Wine Diaries: August 2024
Welcome to the second edition of Old Port Wine Diaries, where I sip, review, and score the latest finds from Old Port Wine Merchants. August ushered in cooler weather, some wonderfully laid-back evenings, and a selection of intriguing wines!
2021 Gran Moraine Pinot Noir – 88 Points
This Oregon Pinot is quite enjoyable. Although it didn’t completely wow me—perhaps because I’ve recently been spoiled by some higher-end Oregon Pinots—it still delivers. The big, jammy red fruit is well-balanced by an earthy funk that adds depth and character. The structure is solid, and I anticipate it will only improve over the next few years.
Price: $$$
2016 Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella Classico – 89 Points
With its deep red and purple hues, this wine presents inviting aromas of dried cherries, plums, and fig newtons. It’s bold yet retains a sense of elegance and lightness. The finish is velvety, accented by subtle hints of toasted walnuts. The tannins are already well-integrated, making it ready to enjoy now. I don’t anticipate much further improvement with age.
Price: $$$
Sparkling Chenin Vouvray – Christophe Thorigny Brut Vouvray – 90 Points
This wine continues to be a reliable choice! I enjoyed it back in July and will likely reach for it again in September. It’s refreshing, enjoyable, and perfect for gatherings—and it’s easy on the wallet, too.
Price: $
2023 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb “Meyer Nepal” #11 – 93 Points
On a hot, humid day, this wine is an ideal choice. It opens with inviting aromas of sweet green grapes, lemon, and grapefruit. On the palate, it’s remarkably crisp and refreshing, with vibrant acidity that adds to its lively structure and complexity. Simply put, it’s incredibly drinkable and easy to enjoy. I’m a fan of this off-dry gem—it’s an acid lover’s delight. While I’d prefer a slightly sweeter finish, I believe that will develop beautifully with age.
Price: $$
2020 Zuccardi Concreto Paraje Altamira Malbec – 89 Points
This wine is robust, brimming with flavors of plum and cherries, with a hint of subtle oak. It’s youthful and fruit-forward, though it could benefit from a bit more structure. However, the well-integrated tannins make it an exceptionally enjoyable and smooth drink. A great bottle to introduce someone to the best qualities of Malbec.
Price: $$
2022 Lucien Crochet Sancerre – 91 Points
This wine is one of the reasons I fell in love with the incredible world of wine. This vintage is approachable, refreshing, and vibrant, with hints of promising complexity. A classic Sancerre that offers exceptional value.
Price: $$
2021 Henri Perrusset Macon-Villages Terroir de Farges – 89 Points
I’d label this bottle as one of my best budget finds! A delectable white Burgundy that won’t break the bank. It’s mineral-driven with ripe tree fruit notes, lively, and offers a lasting finish. Perfect for sharing and a great choice to win over those family members who claim they dislike Chardonnay!
Price: $
2018 Castello di Radda Chianti Classico Riserva – 90 Points
Discovering a Riserva at this price point was a pleasant surprise that piqued my curiosity! The nose is beautifully floral, with notes of leather, smoke, and plum. The palate offers a rich concentration of fruit, making it a truly delightful find—especially for the price.
Price: $$
2021 Castellare Chianti Classico – 90 Points
I consistently find enjoyment in Castellare wines, and their charming bird-themed labels add an extra touch of appeal. This particular bottle offers delightful hints of earthiness, tobacco, and red fruit jam. The tannins are smooth and well-integrated, contributing to a long, silky finish that lingers pleasantly on the palate. It was a fantastic choice for a larger gathering and was met with enthusiasm from everyone in attendance.
Price: $$
2019 Domaine de la Solitude Châteauneuf-du-Pape Barberini – 91 Points
At the more affordable end of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this wine surprisingly does not compromise on quality. It is a big, full-bodied wine that, while lacking some raw power, exhibits a certain timidity and elegance. The palate reveals lovely notes of ripe blackberries, fig, and spice, with a mouth-coating texture and a long, lively finish. Decanting revealed its full potential, as it improved significantly over the course of the evening. This wine shows promise for continued development and should evolve beautifully over the next several years.
Price: $$$
2022 Roland Lavantureux Vau de Vey Chablis Premier Cru – 92 Points
Lavantureux has yet to let me down! While this wine may not have the same impact and enjoyment as their Grand Cru level offerings, it comes impressively close. Although still young and somewhat underdeveloped, it shows beautifully and hints at even greater potential. The wine is concentrated and pure, offering delightful citrus fruit flavors. The 50% aging in new oak barrels imparts a subtle hint of smoke that complements the wine nicely. With its vibrant acidity, it’s a thoroughly enjoyable experience.
Price: $$$
Final Thoughts on the Month of Wine: As August draws to a close, I must admit I’m eagerly anticipating the arrival of fall. There’s something about the changing weather that makes enjoying a glass of wine even more delightful. While a chilled Chablis on a summer evening is undeniably refreshing, there’s a distinct pleasure in transitioning to autumn wines. August has been wonderful, and I’m looking forward to what September has in store. Here’s to savoring the new season with a glass in hand. Cheers!
Top Three Wines:
- 2023 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb “Meyer Nepal” #11
- 2022 Roland Lavantureux Vau de Vey Chablis Premier Cru
- 2019 Domaine de la Solitude Châteauneuf-du-Pape Barberini
Price Range
$: Sub $20
$$: $20-$50
$$$: $50-$100
$$$$: $100+